Surfing History & Philosophy

Surfing: A royal sport in ancient Hawaii, highly paid professional business, lifestyle and adventure in the back of beyond. Surfing is a passion followed by millions of people around the world. The incredible feeling of riding along a wall of water, feeling one with the forces of nature is almost not describable.

Surfing unites different cultures, religions and people of different ages. Surfing is not only a passion, it's a life style, a philosophy.

Surfing, Duck dive
Surfing, the line up
Surfing in Fuerteventura
Surfing with long board
Surfing on Fuerteventura
Surfing, wave from below
Surfing, surfer on wave
underwater world Fuerte
Surfing, Take off on wave
Surfing with long board

If the first Hawaiian - who was riding waves on a log for the first time over 4000 years ago - was just as happy as all of us after a surf session?
It is not exaggerated to say that surfing is one of the oldest sports on our blue planet. However can we even speak of a sport here? And how has the surfing history started?

The Hawaiians manoeuvred their outrigger canoes after fishing through the surf, using the force of the wave. This pragmatic beginning of surfing was the origin of a natural religion, which revered the sea as a god. Every action while surfing was subject to special rites and customs. Only certain and previously consecrated trees could be used for the construction of surfboards. Particularly good waves were reserved for the medical men and kings. Surfing was seen as a way to feel united with the gods.

Surfing is a life style

For us surfers of the present this sounds by far not as antiquated as it seems.
There are only a few other sports in you are so fundamentally exposed to the forces of nature. Even today, many people give up their careers and live a minimalistic life - devoted entirely to surfing waves. What if we surfers were the first real hippies?

Surfing is still a kind of religion for many of us today. In any case, it is a life attitude with its own philosophy.
Like the old Hawaiians, we believe in something. Something that is with us every day. Which tests us, which motivates us, which gives us consolation, which influences our actions, our decisions and gives our life a purpose: Wave riding.

Wave reading in the line up
Empty bay with waves
Surfing, Surfer in barrel
Happy surfer
Clean waves on Fuerteventura
Surfing, Van life on Fuerte
Surfing clean waves
Sunrays through wave
Surfing, happy surfer
Surfing in sunset

When Captain Cook described surfers in his diary on his first trip to Hawaii in 1776, whose childish pleasure was gliding through the waves on wooden planks, surfing had already been thousands of years old.

The first white missionaries, who settled on the Hawaiian Islands in the following years, began to repress the indigenous people and their culture. Although it could actually be interpreted as an expression of love for Gods creation, the physicality and practices of surfing were not compatible with the Christian faith for missionaries. Soon there were only a few Hawaiians who knew the customs of their forefathers.

The Duke of Surfing

However, at the beginning of the twentieth century surfing was re-discovered and reborn by one man. A man who listened to the impressive name "Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku". Today he is known as the forefather of modern surfing.

The Duke, as he is called today, was a lifeguard at the beach of Waikiki, Olympic winner in swimming, beachboy, surfer, and much more.
Above all, he was an ambassador of surfing. He took his surfboard with him to all international swimming competitions. At nearby beaches he gave an astonishing crowd a performance in the art of surfing. Famous personalities of these times like the Hollywood actor John Wayne or the King of Sweden travelled to Hawaii to learn from the Duke how to surf.

On many beaches of his travels, you can find statues of the Duke with a surfboard. Places that the Duke has changed forever and starting points of the worldwide enthusiasm for surfing.

Over all the millennia and above all commercial influences of the 20th and 21st centuries, surfing still is one of the most elementary sports.
No worldwide company, no professional broadcast format, no sponsorship deals, no high-gloss cinema production, can ignore the fascination of surfing. No one can really buy a surfer or put their own stamp on this sport. Surfing is like the ocean: it has always been there and it will always remain.

Fascination Surfing

If you ask surfers what the fascination of surfing is, you will rarely get a rational answer.
However, all surfers respond to this question in a similar way: Their eyes start to shine, full of emotions they will tell you about their first wave and about the incredible feeling that comes with it. They try to make comparisons like: "Surfing is like ...", to explain this fascination to you. Every surfer knows this facial expression. Surfing can hardly be described. You have to experience surfing - you have to live surfing! Aloha.

Do you want to experience the fascination surf, too? Then have a look at our surf courses now. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact us. We are very happy to help you in any matter!

We ♥︎ Surfing

Surfing is a fascinating water sport where you stand on a surfboard and use the energy of the waves to ride them. It is an increasingly popular and widespread sport, practised by beginners and advanced surfers alike.

Surfing is all about reading the waves and finding the right wave to surf at its best. It requires skill, balance and good body control as well as body tension. Surfers must learn to read the waves correctly and feel their energy in order to position themselves correctly and find the optimum moment to stand up on the surfboard.

Choosing the right surf spot is also crucial. There are numerous places around the world where you can surf, from tropical beaches to remote bays. All surf spots in Fuerteventura have their own characteristics, such as the height, speed and power of the waves. Various currents and the nature of the ground also influence the characteristics of a surf spot. Of course, it also depends on the type of surf spot. A beach break surf spot La Pared, for example, is very different from a reef break like the surf spot reefs in the south.

Surfing not only offers fun, action and adrenaline, but is also a great way to work out physically. Paddling into the line up, the pop up and standing on the board require a certain level of physical fitness and endurance. Surfing strengthens the upper body, arms and back in particular. It's a great way to keep fit and enjoy the power of nature at the same time.

For beginners, there are surf schools like ours that offer courses and lessons to teach the basics of surfing. With the right instruction and plenty of practice, anyone can learn the basics of surfing and improve their surfing skills.

Surfing is more than just a sport, it is a philosophy, a way of life. It combines the love of nature, the pursuit of freedom and the desire for adventure. It is a way to escape from everyday life, to reduce stress, to be one with the elements and to immerse yourself in the moment.

Whether you are a beginner or an experienced surfer, surfing offers a unique opportunity to feel the power of the ocean and connect with the elements. It's a sport that is both physically and mentally challenging, while also being a lot of fun. So grab a surfboard and hit the waves!