Today I (Christof) write again and try to answer a legitimate and often asked question:
Is surfing difficult?
So much anticipated, I will not answer that question with a simple yes or no. It would not do justice to the question either. Rather, I ask a counter question:
At what point can you wave well enough to keep your own learning process completed?
Because exactly this point would be the moment in which one could claim to have learned surfing now. A simple subtraction calculation would then be sufficient from that time to the beginning of the first surf attempts to have over the required period a feeling how easy or difficult it is to learn surfing.
For comparison, a car driver's license can be purchased in a holiday course in two weeks.
So, back to the second question.
The problem with surfing is that you can never get enough of it. In a positive sense, one can really speak of dependence here. What triggers this dependency? The fact that the magical moment on the board is always very short. That you are floating on the water at this moment, but still surrounded by water from several sides. It can be found endless analogies, which often get a religious impact.
The fact that you want to do more and more intensive surfing is the reason why even professional surfers never claim to be capable of anything. No real surfers would call their own learning process when surfing completed.
Consequently, one should reformulate the question at the beginning. It almost implies that the fun of surfing begins only when you have completely learned to surf.
It is actually different. As with many other things in life you almost never learn. Surfing is, so to speak, a never-ending learning process. The question should therefore be:
Does surfing make learning fun?
The simple answer is:
I've been learning surfing for almost 20 years now. From the first known wave in the summer of 1999 in France to today - my fascination for this sport has been steadily increasing. I think I've never been so addicted to water and waves as I am today. I've learned a lot during this time. I wish it was more. I wish some learning maps would have gone a little faster. But for the first few years, I did not have anyone to show or explain anything to me.
Nevertheless, I do not want to miss a moment. Learning to wave is fun! So much fun that I changed my life and moved to Fuerteventura. Here I try to pass on my enthusiasm for surfing to you.