Surf Glossary - C: From Channel Step to Crowded
Channel
A channel is a flow in the coastal area that arises from the water flowing back into the sea. This seeks its way back out on the way out, which is the easiest.
Where a channel is, therefore, can never be a breaking wave, because the return flow over a breaking wave represents a much too great difficulty for the water.
The conclusion from this is that surfers use the channel to get behind the breaking waves better.
You can tell from a channel that the water is more agitated and the waves never break at best. When paddling you also feel a slight suction.
Cross Step
Since it requires a certain area, the Cross Step can only be executed as a "trick" on longboards.
With Cross Step is the way of running meant. The surfer "crosses" over the board in the so-called Cross Stance.
Cross Stance
The Cross Stance is the position the surfer has when he has finished his cross step.
A Cross Stance is not a really stable way to stand on the board, so the driver has to move as skillfully as possible to a more stable position.
In old Surffilmen you can watch the nature of the cross "steppe" wonderful.
Choppy
The term "choppy" refers to heavily agitated water. The opposite of "choppy" is "glassy".
For example, you have very rough seas on days with very strong wind or heavy currents. The water is cloudy and uneasy on such days.
Close out
In a close-out, the shaft breaks in its entire length. It is also said "the wave is closing".
A wave that breaks close-out is unsurfable, since it offers no entry at any point and because of its fast, simultaneous refraction offers no way to drive it to any side.
Current
There is a lot to say about the topic of currents.
There are 4 different types of flow:
1. Flow created by heat exchange
2. Flow created by wind
3. Flow created by the tides
4. Flow created by the breaking of a wave
No matter what kind of current it is, basically it can be stated that they can be useful (see also Channel), as well as very dangerous.
But there is always danger if you do not know enough. That's why it is z. For example, it is important that you ask other surfers about the flow conditions on a foreign beach.
It is also helpful to memorize striking points on land, which give you an overview, in which direction and whether you abdreiben at all.
To 1.
Different temperatures provide currents that balance them. One of the best known global streams is e.g. the Gulf Stream. And although these currents affect our global weather, they are not relevant to us surfers in direct connection.
To 2.
On days with heavy winds or even storms, you'll notice that your surfboard is not as easy to hold in position as usual.
Local winds play with the surface of the water and set it in motion. For example, if you are dealing with a strong offshore, you will find that it is not so easy to paddle a wave against the wind.
To 3.
The tides play a very important role with regard to the wave quality and the surfability of a spot. In the current, however, they are rather negligible. Only on islands it can happen that the currents intensify when water runs off or runs up. Always keep an eye on the tides and your position in the water.
To 4.
The current that results from breaking waves always has the biggest impact on you and your surf. The water, which is discharged on the coast, would like to flow back into the sea. For this, it seeks the path of the least resistance and pulls out at these points - usually places where no wave breaks - again outside. We can use the resulting channels to get behind the line-up quickly and save energy. For inexperienced swimmers, however, they are often a major threat, as they are usually unable to gauge how they get out of a channel and often panic.
For this reason: Stay with your surfboard, no matter how sensitive the situation appears to you. With your board you can get out of a potential danger situation faster and more safely than swimming!
Always watch your position in the water and avoid clashing with rocks and rocks.
To escape a current, there are the following important rules:
ALWAYS paddle or swim at a right angle out of the current and try again to get into the white water of the broken waves. It takes you ashore.
But always keep an eye on the ground above which you are.
How much space is between you and the ground? How much room remains when a wave reaches me and overflows?
Chicken Dive
The Chicken Dive is definitely a stopgap and means nothing more than throwing your board behind you when a breaking wave hits you. More elegant and safer solutions are the duck-dive and the turtle-roll.
Should you see yourself confronting an untranslatable wave, a freak set z. For example, where the waves have reached a size that makes it impossible to move more elegantly, before a chicken-dive, be sure that there is no one behind you to hurt, and provide as little as possible of attack to the wave large waves can destroy the length of the carelessly thrown back boards.
Cut back
A cut back is a maneuver in which the surfer makes a change of direction to the breaking part of the wave when he has moved too far away from the breaking part of the waves. Since this part of the wave is the fastest, the cut back brings you back to the steepest and strongest part of the wave. There are many different radical variants of cut backs, for example the Roundhouse cut back or the Layback cut back.
Clean Ocean
Surfing is a natural sport. Everyone can contribute to preserve the unique oceans of this world.
Do not leave trash on the beach.
Always keep in mind how long your waste takes to rot and how quickly you can leave your place clean:
Chewing gum: 5 years
Cigarette filter: 80 years
Household goods: 100 years
Plastic bag: 1000 years
If you see garbage and have space in your bag, take this one too. Everyone can do their bit to keep the beaches and oceans clean and healthy. If you go to the beach, take some garbage bags with you and wear what you find during your surf breaks.
The OTRO MODO Surfschool also supports this with the transport of plastic bags to the respective surf spots and collects not only their own legacy but also time and again rotting beach goods and garbage together.
If you want to make a contribution to environmental protection, then take a look at the internet. On the following pages you will find a lot of interesting information on environmental protection and the seas.
Crowded
By "crowded" is meant that a lot of surfers sit in the line up. Crowded can be equated with "crowded".